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AN ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO TEA

INCAPABLE OF BOILING WATER? TAKE HEART. IT'S NOT A PREREQUISITE for making a proper cup of tea--fact is, ifs usually discouraged. Overheated water lacks oxygen and zaps the flavor from the leaves. That's only the first commandment of tea. Should you decide to delve further, you'll find a world steeped in history and ritual, a world that boasts hundreds of varieties, countless blends and processing techniques, and myriad rules. "I could teach you everything you need to know about coffee in a day," says Alfred Peet, founder of Peet's Coffee and Tea. "It would take a lifetime to teach you everything there is to know about tea."

MY OWN INTRODUCTION CAME DURING A year in South Africa, where teatime is as much a staple as America's morning jolt of joe. Every afternoon at four o'clock we'd gather around the kettle, ceramic mug of fragrant brew steaming in one hand, jam-laden biscuit in the other. For me, it was a welcome ritual of procrastination. Organized breaks from work? I vowed to uphold the tradition once I returned home, envisioning myself in a lavender-scented garden, gracefully pouring tea and feeding teensy triangular sandwiches with dubious mayonnaise fillings to an adoring crowd of friends. But when I rejoined the ranks of my turbo-charged compatriots, finding time to sit down for a pot Of flavored water seemed unfathomable, an indulgence reserved only for special occasions.

Whether you prefer Asian ritual or European custom, appreciating the intricacies of tea means understanding the practices behind the pot. The British, whom I admire for their ability to make a full meal out of the matter, are notoriously fussy about what exactly constitutes a proper afternoon tea as opposed to the lighter cream tea or the heartier high tea. We Americans, however, in our zeal to increase, enlarge, and inflate, manage to misuse most of the terminology. What our hotels call high tea--that delicate array of sandwiches, scones, and sweets--is really just an afternoon tea puffed up with a fancy name. Then there's the royal tea, a concept fabricated to justify forking over a few extra bucks to sip some bubbly with your brew. Of course, to the Brits the idea of mixing alcohol and tea is about as unseemly as interclass socializing.

Although tea has yet to infiltrate L.A. in the way that sushi and yoga have, it is no longer the exclusive province of socialites looking for a place to show off their kid gloves. Tea sommeliers love to compare the complexities of tea to those of fine wine, but Thomas Kaplan, owner of Hugo's restaurant, is quick to point out that "even teas that are hundreds of dollars a pound are only a dollar a cup, so people can try the very best in the wordy Tea is the ultimate populist drink. Its consumption rate is second only to that of water--in the rest of the world, that is.

Here in the colonies we're still living down that Boston tea trashing spectacle. Up until a few years ago tea was at best a quasi-chic addendum to the Starbucks fraternity of mocha-frappa-cappa. These days, though, tea is scoring points for its richer loose-leaf varieties and therapeutic benefits. U.S. sales have more than doubled in the past ten years, and the stuff is turning up in everything from candles to skin cream. Studies have shown that regular tea drinking can keep heart disease, cancer, and even weight gain at bay. True teas--white, green, oolong, and black--all stem from the Camellia sinensis plant, which has been working curative wonders for centuries. The Chinese turned to it more than 1,200 years ago for its medicinal properties and calming effect. The Japanese believe peace can be found in a bowl of tea.

Serenity may be a lot to expect from a few steeped leaves, but even in Los Angeles a growing number of tearooms and restaurants are gaining steam as places that serve a traditional or contemporary contemplative cup. Following are our picks for those that do it best.

-- CHADO --

THIS IS EXACTLY THE KIND OF TEAHOUSE MARKETING GURUS would predict would be a failure: a no-frills setting where tea is the star. Since 1994 the husband-and-wife team of Devan and Reena Shah have been packing in tea lovers with the most lavish selection--300 varieties--of loose-leaf teas assembled under one L.A. roof. Part tearoom, part gift shop, Chado sells all manner of related tchotchkes: Chinese Yixing pots, thimble cups, strainers, and infusers. Canisters cradling leaves from all over the word, including flavored samplings like chocolate-chocolate chip, cinnamon-orange spice, and litchi nut, line the walls. All are deliciously described on an atlas-sized list. If in doubt--or simply overwhelmed--Mauritius is a safe bet. Named for the East African island where it's grown, this rich black tea, infused with a shot of vanilla, is the house blend and a favorite at Les Deux Cafes. 8422 1/2 W. 3rd St., 323-655-2056. Daily, 11:30-6. $15 per person (reservations recommended Sat.-Sun.).

-- CHADWICK --

EVEN THE MOST INVETERATE BRITISH TEA SNOBS, STRIDENT IN their belief that crustless bread was created to roll around watercress, cant help delighting in a Yankee twist on the traditional high tea. The teas at Chadwick are made from top-quality organic leaves and served loose in individual pots. Blends like organic Earl Grey, Sencha Green, and Jade Prince Oolong are offered, as are herbal tisanes (infusions) made from plants plucked from the flower box in the restaurant's back alley. The showstoppers, however, are the finger foods that take the stage on a three-tiered caddy. First come the savories: grilled vegetables on rosemary skewers, cucumber cups of tomato soup, "lambwiches" with eggplant caviar, and in a nod to tradition, buttery scones. Then come the just desserts. Sweet tooths still lament the loss of pastry chef Angela Hunter, but they'll be happy to know her inspiration lives on in the mini pots of hazelnut creme brulee and the three-tiered brownies glued together with peanut butter. Got milk? 267 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-205-9424. Tea service: Wed.-Fri., 2:30-4:30. $30 per person (reservations required).

-- ELIXIR TONICS & TEAS --

DESPITE A SOLID CELEBRITY FOLLOWING, MELROSE'S TRENDY oasis remains a low,key sanctuary where leisurely contemplation is favored over "So who's your agent.?" chat. The teas are arranged neatly in wooden bowls and displayed on an antique Chinese table. "To the uninitiated," explains owner Jeff Stein, "tea is just not that sexy." So he lures in neophytes with the tranquillity of his bamboo garden and cleverly named herbal tonics like Mind over Muddle and Mighty Joe Yang (a cocktail he claims revs a man's manliness). Co-owner Edgar Veytia does most of the buying, scouring private estates in China to secure choice whole-leaf teas, which patrons can sip from Chinese clay pots or take home in bulk. Selections vary, but at any given time there are 20 or so to choose from, and they're types you're unlikely to find anywhere else in town, like Green Lemon Flower and Black Vanilla Rose, which is infused with vanilla and baby rosebuds. Elixir also peddles a host of tea-based treats--jellies, candles, colognes, and incense--as well as teapots, strainers, and the occasional tea-tasting session. 8612 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310-657-9300. Mon.-Sat., 9-9; Sun., 11-7.

-- HUGO'S --

LONG KNOWN AS THE HOT SPOT FOR POWER breakfasting, the venerable West Hollywood eatery took a gamble on the power of tea a few years back, transforming its 300-square-foot warehouse/pantry into a full-fledged tearoom. Today the indoor atrium is packed with Ayurvedic herbs and a cache of nearly 200 hard-to-come-by teas. "It's something people aren't that familiar with, which makes it fun for me," says owner Thomas Kaplan, who stocks both bagged and loose, leaf varieties from premium manufacturers like Ten Ren, Tazo, and Yogi Tea, as well as several dozen of his own creation. Sexualitea, a mix of lavender, rose hips, and chrysanthemum, promises to get the blood pumping. Razz Jazz, a medley of Chinese and Ceylon black teas infused with raspberry oil and Yin Hao jasmine (which Kaplan claims is a favorite of James Bond), pleases the palate with its sparkling, fruity flavor. Order a cup with your breakfast pasta or pumpkin pancakes and the tea is served in a French press, "so that you can control the steeping." Now that Hugo's has a Studio City sister, you'll find all of Kaplan's treasures there as well. 8401 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323-654-3993. Mon.-Fri., 7:30-3:30; Sat.-Sun., 7:30-4. Also at 12851 Riverside Dr., Studio City, 818-765-8985. Mon.-Tue., 7:30-3:30; Wed.-Sun., 7:30-9.

-- HUNTINGTON GARDENS --