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San Diego: A weekend of exploring and enjoying fast-changing downtown doesn't have to break the bank

Standing at the foot of San Diego's Fifth Avenue, gateway to downtown's historic Gaslamp Quarter, we gazed up a long, narrow canyon of Victorian buildings that stretched northward through the heart of the city. Late-afternoon sunlight slanted in over the rooftops, gilding brick facades and turning wavy old glass windows into shimmering mirrors.

We set off walking, appreciating this historic brick-and-mortar side of a city better known for leaping whales, great swimming beaches, and swank seaside villages elbowing up to pricey resorts. While few Easterners would recognize the season locals call winter, this time of year, the city itself is eminently explorable--and affordable.

The key to planning a winter weekend here is to focus explorations around the city's refurbished downtown. This urban center has shown a remarkable rebirth in the last decade, with frenzied improvements still underway--including a new ballpark. Here new mixes with old, and you can rediscover the joy of exploring on foot and riding efficient trolley cars.

The room

A luxury hotel on the beach can top $300 a night on weekends, but there are plenty of less expensive alternatives downtown. In the trendy Gaslamp Quarter, for example, hotels catering to midweek business travelers may offer discounts on weekends.

We list either standard double occupancy rates or sample packages, but you can always negotiate. Try tollfree numbers, but also call the hotel's reservations department. Request seasonal specials, AAA or other discounts, or meal and other packages. Asking for a total including taxes and surcharges should reveal any hidden costs, such as the California Energy Surcharge, that some lodgings tack on when you check out. Remember to get a confirmation number.

Hilton San Diego Gaslamp Quarter. Downtown's newest hotel sports great art, moderne styling, 282 luxe rooms, and a rooftop pool, all a stone's throw from the convention center. BounceBack Weekend breakfast package for two starts at $179. 401 K St.; (800) 445-8667, (619) 231-4040, or www.bilton.com.

Horton Grand Hotel. Victorian-style hotel in the heart of the Gaslamp is a blessed block away from the nightly throng of revelers along Fifth Avenue. Modern rooms with period furnishings. 132 rooms with a one-night bed-and-breakfast package starting at $160. 311 Island Ave.; (800) 542-1886, (619) 544-1886, or www. bortongrand. corn.

Quality Inn and Suites Harborview. Located high on a hill above downtown and adjacent to the El Cortez tower (a local landmark), this well-kept hotel offers some of the best harbor views in town. Nice little outdoor pool, friendly staff 136 rooms from $79. 1430 Seventh Ave.; (800) 404-6835, (619) 696-0911, or www.qualityinnsandiego.com.

The food

The city that popularized that tastiest of no-utensil-required delicacies, the fish taco, still knows how to set a good table. Prices are for an average meal for one.

Cafe 222. Thick waffles and plenty of homestyle cooking in a hip little joint complete with chandeliers made from old spoons. A bargain compared to downtown hotel breakfast prices. Meals about $7.222 Island; (619) 236-9902.

Cheese Shop. Eat in or take out. Don't miss their turkey sandwiches (turkey roasted daily); one is big enough to split. About $6. 627 Fourth Ave.; (619) 232-2303.

Filippi's Pizza Grotto. Squeeze your way in past the Italian grocery (complete with salt cod and hanging cheeses) for a taste of what Italian cooking was like before the discovery of cholesterol. There's a half-century of good eats in this atmosphere redolent of anchovies and garlic. About $7. 1747 India St.; (619) 232-5094.

Royale Brasserie & Bar. At first it might seem madness to suggest that this elegant restaurant with the mosaic-tile floors and art-covered paneled walls is a bargain, but consider its brasserie style. It's best known for its fresh seafood, but, yes, you can get French fries--pardon, pommes frites. Try sharing an entree (about $25) with an appetizer or two and you'll escape for under $50. 224 Fifth Ave.; (619) 237-4900.

The fun

Summer and fall crowds are gone and days are short, yet the weather remains shirtsleeve-comfortable.

Balboa Park. The city's green heart is a botanical and cultural oasis where you can occupy several hours without stepping through a turnstile. For a real bargain, visit the Old Masters hanging in Timken Museum of Art (scheduled to reopen Dec 1; 10-4:30 Tue-Sat, 1:30-4:30 Sun; free; 519/239-5548). The Inez Grant Parker Memorial Rose Garden and the Desert Garden at the Prado's east end (reached via the footbridge over Park Boulevard) are free.

White-suited players put an expert spin on an offbeat sport at the lawn-bowling courts at the west end of the Prado near Sixth Avenue and Laurel Street. You can test your skills with a flying disk (bring your own) at the park's Frisbee golf course--the sport is played just like Tiger's game. Ask for directions at the Balboa Park Visitor's Center (9-4 daily; in the House of Hospitality, 1549 El Prado; 619/239-0512 or www.balboapark.org).

The visitor center also offers details about the park's 14 museums and attractions, which offer free admission on Tuesdays on a rotating basis. Most museum admissions run $5 and up; a one-week passport, good for admission to 13 of the museums and the park's IMAX theater, is $30.

San Diego Zoo. If you haven't visited this attraction in Balboa Park in the last couple of years, several exhibits will be new to you, including habitats for rare douc langur monkeys and a huge rain-forest aviary with brilliantly hued birds. 9-4 daily; $19.50. (619) 231-1515 or www.sandiegozoo.org.

San Diego Maritime Museum. On the other side of the city from Balboa Park, visit a collection of seagoing beauties. Medea, a classic steam yacht, and Star of India, a square-rigged bark, are open for belowdecks tours. 9-8 daily; $6 1492 N Harbor Dr. at Ash St.; (619) 234-9153.

Boardwalk. Embarcadero Marina Park South (great for picnicking), behind San Diego's waterfront convention center, is the start of a harbor-front boardwalk reserved for bicyclists and pedestrians. It runs northward about 3 miles, passing Seaport Village's eateries and shops. We ducked in one shop to buy a kite and soon had it fluttering above yet another grassy park--this one behind Seaport Village--with great views of passing sailboats. Bike Tours San Diego: bike rentals $6 per hour, $18 per day. 509 Fifth; (619) 238-2444. Kite Elite: 859 W. Harbor, Suite D; (877) 234-8229.

San Diego Trolley. The city's remarkably efficient light-rail system stops at the entrance of the Gaslamp and links to many of the city's favorite destinations, including Old Town, Mission Valley, and the Q--Qualcomm Stadium. A $1.25 ticket allows you to ride anywhere in the downtown area with unlimited stops for two hours. (619) 233-3004 or www.sdcommute.com.

Arts. San Diego has become one of the nation's best-regarded regional theater centers. For half-price tickets, on the day of performance only, seek out the Art Tix booth. Beside Horton Plaza on Broadway Circle; cash only. (619) 497-5000 or www.sandiegoperforms. corn.

International Visitor Information Center. For more information and a travel planner, contact the center. (619) 236-1212 or www.sandiego.org.